The science of clean hair
AKA the dirty truth about clean hair. Read More

TL;DR: Hair starts getting dirty immediately after washing due to sebum buildup, dust, and pollutants. Depending on hair type and activity, it can transition from just shampooed to needing a wash again in as little as a day. 


K18 emphasizes a "less is more" approach to hair care, using thoughtfully selected surfactants that cleanse without stripping natural oils. Along with prepping hair for repair, K18 shampoos help maintain scalp health and enhance treatment effectiveness.


Have you ever stepped out of the shower with freshly washed hair and wondered how long that squeaky-clean feeling will last? Surprise: your hair can accumulate natural oils and environmental impurities relatively quickly.


But don't worry, it's not your fault—it's science!


Hair goes through a natural cleanliness cycle. You might shampoo daily or weekly, depending on your hair type and lifestyle. For most of us, that "I need to wash my hair" moment hits one to three days after the last shampoo.


But why does this happen? What's going on with our hair that makes it go from fresh and bouncy to not so much?


This Science Sunday explores clean hair. We'll examine the causes of lived-in hair, the role of surfactants (the cleaning agents in your shampoo), and how K18's shampoos and conditioners don't just clean your hair—they prepare it for repair.


The culprits behind dirty hair

Why might your hair get greasy even when you haven't been anywhere or done anything you'd think would make it dirty? Let's meet the culprits behind dirty hair.


Sebum is your scalp's natural hair protector. These natural oils produced by your scalp keep your hair moisturized and shielded, giving it a natural shine and slip. But after a few days, it builds up and gets sticky. Sebum buildup attracts more sebum, dead skin cells, dust, dirt, and leftover hair products. The result? Greasy-looking, dull, lifeless hair.


Skipping too many days without washing can disrupt your scalp microbiome–the microorganisms that live naturally on your scalp and keep it healthy. Instead of bacteria and fungi living in balance, buildup and sebum feed Malassezia, a type of yeast (or fungi) that loves oils and can cause dandruff and inflammation. It's worth noting that overwashing can also disrupt your scalp microbiome.


Not all hair looks or feels like it might need shampooing at the same rate. Hair type, scalp condition, and lifestyle all play a role in how quickly you go from "just washed" to "need a wash." 


People with fine, straight hair probably shampoo more often because their hair fibers are the same shape, making it easier for sebum to accumulate, which in turn makes it easy for individual strands to stick together–resulting in a clumpy, stringy look. 


The less-is-more revolution

Let's switch gears to talk about shampoos.


Have you noticed how most shampoo bottles read "rinse and repeat?" These instructions have been standard for decades.


While "rinse and repeat" might leave your hair feeling squeaky clean in the short term, it's not doing you any long-term favors. Overwashing strips away those naturally protective oils and can even cause protein loss, leaving your hair and scalp craving moisture.


But what if there is a better way to care for your hair?


Enter K18Hair–and our "less is more” philosophy. 


Taking a biology-first approach, we work with your hair and scalp's natural processes–using an intentionally curated list of ingredients and formulations. Every component of every product serves a purpose, working in harmony to give you the best results with minimal fuss. (Dive deeper into our product formulation here.) 


Our "less is more" philosophy isn't just about shampoo–it’s all encompassing. We aim to boost hair and scalp health, save time and money, reduce water use, and minimize environmental impact.


The science of surfactants

Now that we've covered why hair needs cleansing and overwashing isn't the answer, let's dive into the science behind surfactants—a key cleansing ingredient in shampoo.


Surfactants, short for "surface-active agents," are the most valuable players in your shampoo. They bridge the gap between substances that don't mix—like oil and water. 


Surfactants can also impact your shampoo's thickness and how quickly it lathers, in addition to helping suspend other active ingredients like water, preservatives, and moisturizers.


Here's how they help clean your hair: When you lather, surfactants help oil and dirt mix with water, allowing buildup, contaminants, and impurities to rinse away.


Traditional shampoo formulas add conditioning agents that exchange the accumulated sebum and dirt with emollients, cationics, and polymers to modify the surface properties of hair. Those conditioning agents deposit a protective layer on your hair fibers to offset the undesirable feel of cleaned hair.


At K18, we've selected surfactants that deliver superior cleansing properties and don’t require excessive conditioning agents to offset the negative feel of truly "clean” hair.


By optimizing the pH of our shampoos to be slightly acidic, we minimize the swelling of the outer cuticle layer, which keeps your hair's proteins resilient and maintains the right pH balance for your hair and scalp (for a deeper dive on the effect of shampoo and pH read this Science Class). 


K18's shampoos also prep your hair to receive our proprietary K18PEPTIDE™, which helps reconnect broken keratin chains to restore hair strength and elasticity.


[K18's Detox Shampoo is different. Detox doesn't just cleanse—it removes heavy metals like copper from hair. This is important because metals found in common tap water can interfere with chemical services at the salon and even cause long-term hair damage.]


The science of clean, healthy hair

After all this science you might be asking: OK, so how often should I wash my hair?


We hate to admit it but the answer is: It depends. 


Regular washing is key to maintaining a healthy hair and scalp, and resets hair for optimal styling, appearance, and resilience. Over-washing, however, can strip away the natural protective oils, leaving hair and scalp vulnerable. It's about finding that Goldilocks zone—not too much, not too little, but just right.


So there you have it—the clean science of healthy hair: cleaning without stripping, nourishing without weighing down, and repairing from the inside out.

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